Welcome to Prague, Czech Republic Part I and Part II

October 18
We were up early and off by boat to the bus station at the end of Venice’s main island. From there we took a bus to the Treviso Airport where we took Sky airlines to Prague. It was the easiest trip and not stressful at all. We even had time to stop off at an adorable grocery store on the main island which had the most stunning array of fruits and vegetables that we just had to take a picture. We met three lovely women from Australia who were doing a similar trip as us except theirs was 7 weeks.

We walked to the airplane and Melody posed for a picture and I even took a picture from the plane as we flew over the Alps and the clouds enveloped them. the easiest trip and not stressful at all.

We arrived in Prague 20 minutes early and took a public bus to a subway and then to a tram which sounds confusing but this city is so organized and easy that it was no time at all before we were at the Hotel Rome where we are staying. It is a wonderful hotel with quirky, yet helpful staff and enormous rooms. I love this place and it is at the base of the Castle District hill and near the Charles Bridge. It’s perfect in every way.

We had lunch only a short walk from the hotel at a café where I had, of all things, a hummus sandwich and it was delicious. We saw a couple getting what we would say was left over spaghetti Bolognese which oddly looked so delicious. We reminisced at how some foods taste good, and sometimes better, the next day and that someone should open a restaurant and serve left overs. It probably wouldn’t work but it’s an interesting idea.

We spent the remainder of the day walking up the hill which affords one spectacular views of the city. It is a long trek up and I was keenly aware of not being in the best of shape right now. It was a bit hard at some points when the hill was steep. We came across an American couple who were hysterical with laughter and as I passed I realized the woman who was most likely in her 60’s was looking up to heaven and saying “here I come, here I come”. Both she and her husband were clearly trying to make the best of having gotten more than half way up a difficult incline and now had no choice but to continue on. They were so funny and I loved that she was dramatic in a humorous way. They were both fine and clearly not in any danger of really having a heart attack but they, I am sure, will not make the mistake of climbing that hill again during their visit. Melody and I were even thinking of taking the tram tomorrow up there instead of the climb. Our reason, of course, is because it takes too much time from our sightseeing, or at least that is what I am telling myself.

We walked around and went into a small church in a convent which was just preparing for evening mass.

We were a little lost and were looking at the map for our next move when this older woman came round the corner with her two dogs and told us to follow her. We walked down the beautiful tree lined streets and she told us about the dogs and led us right to the Palace where we were then able to watch the changing of the guards. The people in Prague seem very helpful and also extremely proud of their city (rightfully so) and enjoying showing it off to visitors.

The walk down from the place was spectacular as the city was now a blanket of lights. There were lots of tourists out and about with us taking pictures, strolling and simply enjoying a magical evening in the most fairytale like city on earth.

We did, even though we were tired, walk over the Charles Bridge. It is being refurbished so we were not able to rub the carving of Saint Nepomuk which we did last year when we were here in November to ensure that we would visit here again. Hopefully having rubbed it once will do the job but for now I am here and that is what matters.

We had dinner at the same place where we had lunch and did get that amazing looking spaghetti with Bolognese sauce.

The evening had gotten cold so we returned to the hotel and off to bed.

October 19

We started the day off with breakfast at the hotel. You really have to love European hotels as almost all of them include the nicest breakfast buffets.

We took the tram to the top of the hill to see the Strahov Monastery which boasts a truly amazing library. We walked around the library and admired the beautiful frescos and the intricate wood panels and just the overall beauty of the stacks and stacks of extremely old books. There was even an odd collection of animals that had been stuffed or with the fish and sea animals I guess you might say just preserved for all time. They even have the remains of a Dodo Bird. It was a scary looking animal that has been extinct for many years.

We walked down the hill and stopped off at the Saint Loreta Church where I sat admiring the garden’s beauty and listening to their noon day symphony of bells that rang harmoniously for what seemed like a half hour.

We then reached the Castle and made another pass through it admiring more of the details and beauty that make up this district.

We visited the National Gallery at the St. George’s Convent where there were some tremendous works of art from the 19th Century. There was even an oil painting done by the composer Antonin Dvorak which astounded me as I had no idea he also possessed this artistic ability as well. I also loved the glass goblets adorned with garnets and the portraits by Josef Manes. There are so many talented Czech artists I have never heard of so it was great to see them all in one place.

We even made time to have a little snack of some street food. We found a Euro Hot Dog vendor and for about $1.20 we got an American style hot dog but instead of our traditional bun they give you a hollowed out fresh French bread type roll with the top lopped off. It was great with the spicy mustard. I am so glad we stopped off there.

The Castle District includes the Saint Vitus Cathedral which is a remarkable sight inside and out, the Old Royal Place, several galleries, Saint George’s Basilica and the Golden Lane which is side road that is lined with beautiful one and two story small houses now occupied by shops. Melody took this route alone as I decided to walk the tree lined park below. She joined me about a half hour later and we hiked along the paths and down by the babbling brook which also included many works of public art.

There were the two men made out of stone blocks called Ghost of Giant Mountain by Stupeka and the Pyramidal Dwarf by Gebauer which I could not resist leaning on for a little rest after the long hike. At the end of the park there is a really unique sculpture made from a large piece of stone which at first looks like nothing in particular but once you focus your eyes you see an image of a man with his arms out. I like the piece a lot and am glad we walk this gorgeous tree lined path the whole way. Also the trees have begun to change colors here as well so the vibrate orange, reds and yellows paint beautiful landscape.

We headed into the center of town to visit the Mucha Museum which has on view many of Alfonse Mucha’s exceptional Art Nuevo works. I have always loved his designs but I now have such a profound respect for his talent as well as his commitment to the Slavic people of whom he was one.

The museum was small but extremely worthwhile and when we completed it we had time to get to mass. We had hoped to make it to Saint Loretas for the 6:00pm but we ended up going to the 7:00pm mass at The Infant of Prague church. It was lovely and there was a group of young people who sang during the mass and played guitar. It was very folk music like and not exactly what you’d expect in this ornately decorated church but it was just perfect.

Dinner was around the corner at Binarna Restaurant which has the majority of its dining space two levels down in a refurbished cellar. It was interesting and the food was good but not great.

We walked by the part which is across the street from our hotel and came across the sculptures that I had remembered seeing during my visit last year but did not recall that it was a tribute and memorial to all those who may have still had their physical life but emotionally, spiritually and I suppose intellectually they are fractured people due to all that came with the years of Communist occupation. It is a very moving set of sculptures and in the pictures it looks more ominous than it really is.

It was another fabulous day in Prague and I am looking forward to more tomorrow.