Welcome to Rome, Italy Part III

October 7

The morning started off with waving mom off at the Termini train station for her quick trip to the Leonardo Da Vinci Airport and then on her flight back to Ireland to spend a few days with Jean Marie before she heads back to Boston. It was sad to see her go and a little emotional. We had a great time this past month and although it would have been nice if she continued on the journey I am just so grateful all went well.

I then checked into the Hotel Torino located only a few blocks from the Termini station. Mom and I found this one on our own and it is very nice and makes getting on my train to Pisa much easier tomorrow morning. I straightened up my luggage and organized a few things and then headed out for the day.

It was a great deal of sightseeing which began with a walk from my hotel around the block to the Santa Maria Maggiore church. It wasn’t so much the inside of the church I wanted to see it was a statue on the outside corner that I had seen while on the tour bus two days ago that I wanted to go back and take a picture of. It interested me that this Saint was an artist and was holding a painting that he was working on. It just seems unusual for a Saint so I just had to take a picture of what turned out to be Saint Lucas. I did go visit the inside of the church which is magnificent and has a beautiful chapel off to the side that I really found lovely.

Next was another church that caught my eye on the tour bus and it was only a few more blocks in the other direction. The Santa Maria Degli Angeli church is wonderful for all the same reason most every other church is but it also has a unique feature that in the marble floor there is an inlay of a Meridian with details on the plants, longitude and latitude numbers and the zodiac signs. This particular Saint is known for her appreciation and advancement of the sciences and arts.

Now I just wondered a bit and had a quick snack at an outside café. I could have had a snack at the very elegant McDonald's I came across in a luxury hotel but I just can not bring myself to do fast food like that in Europe.

I came across the Saint Vitale Basilica which was down a steep flight of stairs and has a very dark and mysterious façade. Inside it is equally dark but easily you get drawn into the detailed paintings that cover all the walls. The construction of the church was started in 401AD so that makes it one of the older churches in Rome.

I stopped off at the Gardino Quirinale which is a small but lovely park where several people on their lunch break were enjoying their meals.

Next was the Basilica Saint Maria Sopra Minerva which had the most beautiful blue ceilings and gorgeous stained glass windows.

The Pantheon was next and although I had been in there several times before it is still an amazing sight to behold.

I passed by some lovely small streets and found some beautiful buildings to admire as well as fountains and statues. I particularly liked this one fountain with a rather modern sculpture of a couple leaning in toward one another. It was kind of sad to see that this fountain appears to be of no real interest to anyone as there was no water and garbage was now thrown inside the basin. I loved the work and just had to stop and admire its simplicity.

Next was a visit to the Church of Saint Maria del Carmelo. I particularly loved the statue of Maria Del Carmelo as she has a wonderfully compassionate quality in her eyes and expressive face and the way she holds the child on her lap. I also found the angels on the alter exquisite in their expressive detail and the way the artist has them positioned at the top.

I took a long walk next from the Vatican where I had wanted to visit Saint Peter’s Basilica but the line was so tremendous that I opted to see things I hadn’t ever seen and although I am disappointed I didn’t get in to the Basilica I do have found memories of my last visit to Rome and the time spent in there.

I walked across the Saint Angelo Bridge and took the loveliest stroll along the river front enjoying the soft breeze and the beautiful sunny day.

At one point, in a neighborhood about a half mile from the Vatican, I came across the Saint Spirito in Saxia Monument and chapel with an interesting small tower on top. The chapel was closed for visitors but I was able to peek in an open door and take a quick picture.

Next was the real reason I was in this neighborhood to begin with. While on the tour boat the other night the guide mentioned an unfinished bridge which a patron had commissioned Michelangelo to design but after the one arch was built the project was abandoned so all that remains is this odd little arch. Now because the guide did not specify exactly where in this neighborhood the arch was I made the presumption that it would be right near the waterfront. Not the case. I spend the next hour and half walk around and around, over one bridge and back over the next. I asked several people who knew nothing of it and although I had found a sign next to the Mazzini bridge which for many years Romans did not like it because it was the only way to get to the prison on the other side of the river and at the time it was built when you went to jail you were paraded over it. Now this sign I found talked about the arch called the (Unfinished Bridge) and although it said specifically which street it was over I did not see that note at first and just started walking around looking for it. Crazy me, for not just taking the time to read the annotated note.

Now while on my arch quest I did come across several things that made the adventure worthwhile. I came across this tiny neighborhood where sits the San Giovanni Della Malva church and when I went in there were two woman in the front row and a nun sitting behind them and together they were doing the rosary. I think in Rome, in many of the churches, this is a daily occurrence. I took a quick picture and left them to pray. I also came across the Church of Saint Dorotea which I particularly loved and went in and light some candles for my friend Denise’s sister Dorothea who has had a very difficult year as well as for the many other people who I know that it is a difficult time for them as well.

Now hidden away on another side street is the Rome Botanical Garden. I only stopped off at the front as I had limited time but it was so beautiful and absolutely a place, if I lived in the city, would visit often for its flora as well as for the peaceful nature of the walled garden.

It was not until I went back to the original sign at the Mazzini Bridge that I saw the note about the arch being over the Giulia Avenue which was actually in a little from the main river front street. It was an exhausting time finding the arch but well worth it when I saw it and when I had the pleasure of window shopping up this street which is clearly known for great antique shops. I love a find like this since it would never have been on my list of things to do had I not decided to find the arch.

Next to the arch was the Church of Saint Maria dell’ Orizione e Morte. It was a small church compared to many of the others I’d seen today but it was interesting to see the two balconies above and directly off to the side of the alter. More like a theater than a church in that respect.
Next came a quick trip to the Villa Borghese and Borghese Galleria. I was getting tired at that point and just took a lovely stroll along the garden path with several other tourists and saw some beautiful architecture, a wonderful fountain and the Museum of Modern Art which had already closed for the day. I had been to that museum last time I was in Rome seven years ago but it would have been nice to visit it again.

After my walk I came across another church this one was Saint Eugenio's. I can not imagine how long it would take to stop off at every church in Rome. I am sure some has tried to do it but literally everywhere you turn there is another church and always something unique about it.

I did a last visit to the Vatican City neighborhood before heading back to my hotel. I have been listening to a street singer near my hotel room window as I typed this which is always and added pleasure.

I have loved my visit to Rome and will miss the incredible energy and exciting atmosphere that you find corner you turn and every piazza you step into.